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Updates to the French Environmental Footprint Framework

July 25th Consultation

Following a recent meeting with the French CGDD, several updates have been proposed to the French methodological framework for calculating the environmental footprint of fashion products.


Below is a summary of these changes. Peftrust will integrate them into our platform in the coming weeks.

Emotional Durability

  • Simplified Criteria: Removal of “material” and “commercialization duration” index.

  • Refined Coefficients: Adjusting the non-physical durability range from [0.5;1.5] to [0.67;1.45] 

  • Future-Proofing: Future versions will consider certain categories (e.g., equipment, socks, underwear, and sports articles).

  • Repair Intensivity Index:
  1. A more accessible sales channel definition is based on website color references.
  1. Clearer pricing guidelines for repairability.
  1. Lower thresholds for repair costs would make it more stringent and cost-effective for items like T-shirts (€20 to €10).
  • Broader Range Index:
  1. Easier sales channel definition based on website color references.
  1. Higher differentiation threshold from 50,000+ references (previously 12,000+).
  • Traceability display Index: Visibility of traceability information online and in-store, going beyond AGEC law requirements.

Intrinsic Durability

⊙  Preparing for future convergence, not included in the first version of the methodology.

Life Cycle Methodology

  • Material Evolution:
  1. New materials: cashmere, silk, mohair, polyamide, Australian wool, lyocell.
  1. Default materials for minor components (<20% mass).
  1. Clarified Circular Footprint Formula (CFF) per PEFCR A&F v2.0.
  • Dyeing and Finishing Processes:
  1. Detailed inventory calculations and relevant labels for dyeing.
  1. Inclusion of various printing processes.
  1. Integration of pretreatments (bleaching, finishes).
  • Other Processes:
  1. Spinning: Clearer assumptions and impact separation.
  1. Knitting: Recognizing methods that drastically reduce waste (from 18% to 2%).
  1. Air Transport: Percentage consideration at the brand level as per PEFCR A&F v2.0.
  1. Export outside Europe: Higher thresholds for synthetic classification (AGEC French law).
  1. Upcycling: Explicitly added as an option.
  • Different Purchase Orders for one reference: Aligning with AGEC French law, focusing on the geographical origin of the primary fibre source.

Category Methodology

  • Adding linings as an option.
  • New categories: sportswear, lingerie, hoodies, gloves, scarves, and more.
  • Integration of trims.

Empreinte Database

  • 85 ICVs covering materials, finishing, energy, and transport.
  • Version 1.0 is in progress.
  • Data from Ecoinvent plus additional sources.
  • The disaggregated database will be ready by autumn.

Timeline

  • Goal: Publish by the end of 2024 (Level 1).
  • Note: 3-month European Commission notification period.